Down-home food done upscale

The Wichita Eagle
By Demise Neil

Founded by business tycoon Ted Turner, Ted's Montana Grill offers down-home cooking in an upscale ambiance. One restaurant opened at 21st and Tyler in May, and a second will open July 26 on Webb Road at K-96.

ON THE MENU: Ted's menu includes a selection of 21 burgers, which can be made with either beef or bison meat and a variety of toppings. Those same sandwiches also can be ordered with a chicken breast instead of beef.

Ted's also offers seven rotating "blue plate specials" ranging from meat loaf on Tuesdays to roast turkey and dressing on Sundays.
The dinner menu includes a variety of steaks, also available in beef or bison.

DON'T-MISS DISHES: Ted's is upscale in price and ambiance, but it sells the type of food you expect to find in a diner - burgers, fries, onion rings, chili, milkshakes.

Ted's succeeds at being something Wichita is just not used to: fanciful comfort food.

Almost everything we tried was delicious. Particularly outstanding is one of Ted's signature menu items - bison pot roast served with mashed potatoes and green beans. The meat was so tender it was falling apart, and the mashed potatoes were smooth and nicely seasoned.

That said, the 7-ounce beef and buffalo burgers we tried were good. The blue creek served with Maytag bleu cheese, bacon and mushrooms, was one of our favorites.

The blue plate special also was a pleaser. We tried Monday's chicken fried chicken with country gravy. The meat was as big as the plate and not overly greasy.

For dessert, we indulged in Ted's strawberry shortcake, served with a flaky biscuit and topped with ice cream, whipped cream and strawberries.

It's the details, though, that make Ted's special.

The onion rings are big and perfectly breaded. The fries are fresh-cut. The salads are made from wedges of lettuce. Colas are served in glass bottles. And before the meal, diners are served a bowl of complimentary half-sours, which are cucumbers halfway through the pickling process. They're deliciously different and something I'd consider paying for if they weren't free.

AMBIENCE: Wood floors, mahogany paneling, high-backed booths, jewel colored ceramic tiles, and good lighting concepts combine to produce a comfortable, upscale atmosphere.

SERVICE: Very good.