Ted Turner steaks his claim along beef-eater row

Philadelphia Daily News
By Howard Gensler

No one can accuse Ted Turner of backing down from a challenge.

That's why he's opened the first Philadelphia location of his Ted's Montana Grill steakhouse (Broad and Spruce streets), in a completely redesigned version of the huge corner space that posed too big a challenge for Avenue B.

Challenge No. 2 comes from Ted's beefy competitors. The restaurant is within walking distance of steakhouse legends Ruth's Chris, Morton's, Capital Grille and Smith & Wollensky. So what does Ted's bring to the table?

Price.

Ted's is the most family-friendly of the steak spots and the most affordable, as all the meat dishes come with side dishes.

As befits a steakhouse, the room has lots of wood, a few wise sayings painted on the walls and a mounted buffalo head that you may want to wave to while you're eating your bison steak. There are lots of small booths for business lunches and there's a bar that faces onto Spruce Street which should be a good meeting spot for a quick libation before the orchestra.

The onion rings hit the mark, with a crispy breading surrounding a real onion slice, and the portion was a good size for sharing.

For their price, the steaks were a hit. The slabs of meat at Ted's were a good size, cooked to the correct ordering instructions, tender and tasty. The bison, especially, had a strong flavor without having too much fat. It was maybe a little gamier than a beef steak but if you didn't know you were eating buffalo, you wouldn't know you were eating buffalo.

Ted's is definitely worth a shot. And like a good steak, it should get better with age.