Childish chow grows up
More restaurants chucking fattening juvenile fare for more healthful choices

THE COLUMBUS DISPATCH
BY KEVIN JOY

Even a few years later, with a teenage daughter today, Rose Rings still laments the choices she found on children's menus. Hot dog. Hamburger. Chicken fingers. Most restaurants offered unlimited soft drinks for youngsters, with main courses usually accompanied by French fries and, in some cases, starchy rolls and dessert.

"It's like they dumb down the food," said Rings, a retail manager from Worthington.

"People expect those things to be on the menu. Why is that acceptable?"

Traditionally, the children's menu has rarely held a choice of nutritious foods -- or variety.

But that is slowly changing.

A few chains -- Applebee's, Chili's, Red Lobster, Ted's Montana Grill -- have added more-healthful options in entrees and side dishes for the young. As concerns about diet and childhood obesity grow, parents are demanding it.

Theresa St.-Gil, a stay-at-home mom from Lewis Center, often bypasses the children's menu when dining out, opting instead to split an adult entree -- from fajitas to Thai curry puffs -- with her 3-year-old daughter, Elizabeth.

"If they have a kids' menu, we look at it to see if there's anything on there we're comfortable with," she said. "And then we're sitting there going, 'Hmm, is she going to eat that?' "

St.-Gil doesn't forbid a hot dog or cheeseburger every now and then. But she is actively engaged in finding healthful entrees, side dishes and beverages, as when she substitutes a side salad for the smiley-face fries at Bob Evans and takes juice from home instead of ordering a soda.

Dave Scarpetti faces similar compromises with his daughter, Frankie.

The chemist from the North Side wants his child to be exposed to a variety of foods at a young age.

And often the 4-year-old is agreeable.

Unless she wants a hot dog.

"When you're exhausted and you just need a break, you'll give in," he said. "When you do have the energy, you say no.”

“I don't worry about a healthy choice, but I would like her to experience something a little bit better, a little more interesting."

A family favorite is HomeTown Buffet, which, he said, allows everyone to choose from a variety of vegetables, sides and main dishes.

The atmosphere -- sometimes lively, always family-oriented -- doesn't hurt, either.

When feeling more adventurous, the clan will have vegetarian meals at Whole World Natural Restaurant & Bakery in the Clintonville neighborhood or order sushi at Haiku Poetic Food & Art in the Short North -- neither of which offers a separate kids' menu.

Some restaurants, meanwhile, are adapting their offerings with young people in mind.

Ted's Montana Grill, an Atlanta chain with locations in Dublin and the Arena District, tweaked its children's menu in 2005, adding smaller portions of certain adult meals, such as grilled chicken, pot roast and salmon; plus a variety of side dishes, including broccoli, squash casserole and garlic mashed potatoes.

The changes were made at the behest of Chief Executive Officer George McKerrow Jr., who didn't want his young clientele gobbling fatty foods.

"I think our society right now needs it," said Chris Raucci, corporate chef for Ted's. "We're trying to be on the front side of the healthy restaurant. That's what brings people in to us."

Red Lobster revamped its menu in 2003, adding applesauce and raw vegetables to its kiddie offerings, which include broiled fish, grilled chicken and crab legs served with steamed vegetables.

Also not immune to the changes are fast-food restaurants, such as Wendy's -- with optional reduced-fat milk and mandarin-orange slices -- and McDonald's, where a Happy Meal might include milk or apple juice and "apple dippers."

Several independent establishments are garnering parental approval, too.

Northstar Cafe, which operates restaurants in Clintonville and the Short North, doesn't have a children's menu.

Yet the eatery, which touts its use of organic and locally grown ingredients, will make a small flatbread pizza, quesadilla or smaller portion of its popular Cloud 9 pancakes -- served with bananas and Ohio maple syrup -- upon request.

"I think parents are attracted because everything on our menu is made with the best ingredients you can buy," co-owner Kevin Malhame said.

The concept is working. Although Northstar isn't billed as a family destination, strollers and sippy cups have become common weekend sights at both locations.
Benevolence Cafe, a vegan restaurant near the North Market, offers a more unusual menu for little patrons.

It features a Sloppy Joe made with a textured-vegetable product, homemade macaroni and cheese with shredded vegetables, and "not" chicken strips -- tofu slices breaded, baked and arranged in a circle with carrot sticks.

Other entrees have raisins or applesauce as sides.

But what do the kids think?

"I rarely see a child come in here who hasn't been exposed to eating fruits and vegetables on a regular basis," said Chad Whitaker, general manager of Benevolence. "But you have to make it fun. Kids aren't going to eat something that isn't visually appealing."

At Latitude 41 in the Columbus Renaissance hotel, Chef Tony Miller developed a health-conscious "fun menu" for the opening of the Downtown restaurant last year.

There isn't a fry or nugget in sight.

Dishes include teriyaki chicken with steamed rice and vegetables, a petite filet mignon with smashed potatoes, fresh fish and a hamburger with fruit.
Among sometimes-pricey adult offerings, the fun-menu items range from $5 to $8.

"It's neat. We're kind of ahead of the curve," Miller said. "A lot of people have the tendency to downplay what their kids will eat."

The reception, he said, has been positive.

"I haven't had a single complaint where somebody said, 'Hey, where are my chicken fingers?' "